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I am in the backseat of a pickup truck that is driving down the Atlantic coast of Patagonia. He has taken the same km route from the city of Trelew to Cabo Raso more than times. As we veer off the smooth motorway on to the gravel Route 1, I scramble to set up an out-of-office message via my phone: Cabo Raso is a coastal village that has become a refuge for fisherman, algae collectors, drifters, and travellers looking to escape the city and connect with nature. I heard about this mysterious ghost town from locals during Morfilandia, a food festival in the nearby town of Rawson — and a few hours later, they convinced me to take the detour to go and see it.
It is the only inhabited town within km; I see blue sky and a lot of desolate, empty space. This is the retreat I need, to completely disconnect, escape the stress of chaotic Buenos Aires and experience tranquillity. On a lawn lie two rusting decades-old buses, two smaller stone houses, and one swing, all less than 20 metres from the shore.
In the midth century, Cabo Raso was home to more than people — families of fishermen, farmers and wool traders. It had a boarding school, a post office, a convenience store, a cemetery, and a hotel — and was a summer holiday destination. But Argentina modernised and the town declined: In , Mercedes Finat, the last resident, died and the village lay deserted until Eliane and El Gitano arrived 20 years later.
The pair revived the natural wonderland — and brought the population up to two. They had decided to swap city life for the countryside, and came across the vacant hectare oceanside village. Over the next year, they cleared rubbish, planted trees, pruned the farmland, and reconstructed the ruins into eco-friendly lodgings. Before I can even unload my bags from the truck, Eliane gives me a tour of the town.
They use water from a well, and generate power from the sun and wind. The grounds are dotted with lodging options: The private houses have one double and four single beds, a kitchen, bathroom with hot water, a wood-burner, and electricity.